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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - V8 Engine mounts

I'm a bit confused as to what engine mounts i need. I've got a '78 MGB GT and i'm fitting a 3.5 Rover V8 out of an SD1.

I've been looking on the Clive Wheatley site and i'm not sure if i just need the rubber v8 engine mounts or the alloy v8 mounting brackets?

See, http://mgv8.homestead.com/v8con.html

Any info would be great,

Thanks
Gavin
Gavin Jewkes

Gavin,
The SD1 engine bracket can't be used, so you will need to buy new brackets as well as rubbers. At least having a rubber bumper car you won't have to buy chassis rail brackets. Although the photo on Clive's site shows rubbers already fitted to the alloy engine brackets, when I bought them they were supplied separately (I've just checked the invoice)...you may want to check. Which reminds me, I really should shred all my paperwork so that I'm never tempted to add up the cost of the conversion!
Good luck. Pete
Pete Green

I know what you mean Pete, i made the mistake of working out how much more i need to spend on bits last night and wish i hadn't!!

Cheers for the reply!
Gavin Jewkes

I agree with Pete. I'm using Clive's brackets and new rubbers on my car. Same engine as you're using, Gavin.

I purchased my parts from a fellow in Ontario who used to be the Canadian distributor for Clive. The brackets and rubbers are separate bits.

I don't think it's a mistake keeping records of the costs. If we worried about the money, we wouldn't restore LBC's!!
Simon Austin

You can make your own brackets easily enough. The criteria is to get the rubber mounts as close to and as high up the motor as possible. Or , to save alot of hassle,
Glen Towery in America makes brackets that apparently set the engine lower and further back by more than an inch, which is a big plus bonnet and radiator clearance wise. Towery Foreign Cars.

Big mistake adding up costs, igorence is bliss.
Peter

Gavin,
Make room in your budget for the Wheatley engine steady bar. Itīs essential if you plan to use blockhugger headers and a help holding your engine in place.

Erik
Erik

Hi Gavin, I'm using Clive's alloy mounts with the RV8 rubbers. Drop in fit.

Kelly
Kelly Combes

The steady bar currently under your 1800 type gear box just fits very neatly across the back of the V8 engine.
From head to top of foot well.
Use through the guards type headers (I got mine from Clive). Cures over heating problems for good, ovoids starter motor problems and gets you an addittional 10 to 13 BHP.
Peter

Gavin.

Another good source of parts is from Dave Vale at V8 conversions at Farnborough, Kent Dave was part of the original Costello Conversions so knows more about putting the Rover V8 into a B than just about anyone.

He can supply the engine mounting plates.I would recommend the RV8 rubber mountings, he does the engine steady bar for about Ģ30.00 which is essentual, I tore the original standard rubber mounts within 300 miles, but without the engine steady bar but only driving fairly gently whilst running in the engine. He also has the brackets you will need to convert the gearbox crossmember.
Daves No. is 01689 858716

You will also need the earlier shorter P6 water pump, the bracket for the alternator and you will need to strip the SD1 crank pulley of its existing pulleys, and have a groove machined in it to line up with the alternator and water pump otherwise you will have to set the engine further back which will create less easily solvable problems.

I would also recommend the RV8 manifolds and system, I got mine from MGB Hive the full system in stainless steel was Ģ399.00 and is of very good quality.
Their no. is 01945 700500

Hope this is of help,

Kevin Jackson
Kevin Jackson

My mounts (like glenns) set the motor back quite a bit so I am able to use a standard rangerover water pump (that is a bit cheaper than the shorter nose version ) behind the radiator.
Peter

This thread was discussed between 12/01/2006 and 18/01/2006

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